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If your central air conditioner is running but blowing warm air instead of cold, one of a handful of common issues is almost certainly the cause. Some are quick homeowner fixes; others require a licensed technician with proper instruments. Working through this checklist in order saves a service call when the answer is a simple fix.

For southern New Hampshire homes, here are the seven most common causes and what to do about each.

1. Thermostat is set wrong

It sounds obvious, but it's the most common cause we encounter. Check the thermostat:

  • Mode is set to Cool (not Off, Heat, Fan, or Auto)
  • Setpoint is below the current room temperature
  • Fan setting is on Auto (not On) so the fan only runs when the AC is actually cooling
  • For battery-powered thermostats, batteries are fresh (a dim or blank display is the giveaway)
  • No schedule override is active

If this is the issue: set correctly and the AC should resume cooling within a few minutes.

2. Dirty air filter

A clogged filter restricts airflow across the indoor coil. The coil temperature drops below freezing, ice forms on it, and eventually the system blows warm air (because the iced coil cannot transfer heat from the air).

How to diagnose: pull the filter and look at it. If you cannot see light through it, it is too clogged.

If this is the issue: replace the filter immediately. If the indoor coil is iced over, turn the system off, set the fan to On (no cooling), and let it thaw for several hours before running the AC again.

3. Frozen evaporator coil

Beyond a dirty filter, several things can cause the indoor coil to ice over:

  • Closed or blocked supply or return vents
  • Dirty blower wheel reducing airflow
  • Failing blower motor
  • Low refrigerant
  • Undersized return ductwork

How to diagnose: open an access panel to the indoor coil (or look at the refrigerant lines exiting the air handler). Visible ice confirms it.

If this is the issue: turn the system off and let the coil thaw fully (several hours). Run the system again with a fresh filter. If it ices over again, call a technician; the cause is more involved than just a clogged filter.

4. Refrigerant leak

An AC system is a sealed refrigerant loop. It should never leak. When it does, cooling capacity drops, the indoor coil ices, and the compressor can be damaged. Symptoms specific to refrigerant issues:

  • System runs continuously but does not reach setpoint
  • Hissing or bubbling noises near the indoor or outdoor unit
  • Oily residue near connections (refrigerant oil escapes with the refrigerant)
  • Gradual decline in cooling capacity over weeks or months

If this is the issue: call a licensed technician with EPA Section 608 certification. Repeatedly topping off a leaking system without finding the leak wastes money - the refrigerant will escape again - and federal EPA rules require a certified technician to handle refrigerant.

5. Blocked condenser coil (outdoor unit)

The outdoor coil rejects heat from your home to the outside air. When it is coated with pollen, cottonwood, grass clippings, pet hair, or other debris, it cannot reject heat efficiently. The system runs continuously but the indoor coil cannot get cold enough.

How to diagnose: walk outside and look at the outdoor unit. Visible debris, blocked fins, or vegetation pressed against the unit are the giveaways.

If this is the issue: turn off power to the outdoor unit at the disconnect. Rinse the coil gently with a garden hose from the inside out. Avoid pressure washers (they bend the fins). Keep shrubs and grass at least two feet back from the unit.

6. Tripped breaker or disconnect

If the indoor blower runs but the outdoor unit is silent, the outdoor compressor circuit may have tripped. The indoor fan keeps moving air, but with no compressor running, the air is just whatever temperature the house happens to be.

How to diagnose: check the breaker panel for a tripped breaker on the outdoor unit circuit. Check the disconnect box on the wall next to the outdoor unit.

If this is the issue: reset the breaker once. If it trips again immediately, leave it off and call for service. Repeated tripping indicates a real electrical problem (bad capacitor, failed contactor, compressor issue).

7. Failed compressor

The compressor is the heart of the AC system. When it fails, the indoor fan still runs, but there is no refrigerant flow to actually cool. Symptoms:

  • Outdoor unit is silent (no compressor hum)
  • Outdoor fan may still run even though the compressor has failed
  • System has been gradually losing cooling capacity over a long time
  • Compressor may be making unusual noises before complete failure

If this is the issue: compressor failure is a major repair, often comparable in cost to system replacement on older equipment. A licensed technician can diagnose and walk through repair-vs-replace options.

Quick checklist before you call

  1. Confirm thermostat is in cooling mode with proper setpoint
  2. Replace the air filter if it has been more than a few months
  3. Check that supply and return vents are not blocked
  4. Check that the outdoor unit is running and clear of debris
  5. Reset the breaker if tripped (once)
  6. If the indoor coil is iced over, turn the system off and let it thaw
  7. If problems persist, call for service

When to stop troubleshooting and call

Call a licensed technician if:

  • The breaker keeps tripping
  • You suspect a refrigerant leak (hissing, oily residue, gradual decline)
  • The indoor coil ices over even with a clean filter and clear vents
  • The outdoor unit is silent or making unusual noises
  • You have worked through the checklist and the AC still blows warm

Schedule a service call

For AC diagnosis and repair in southern NH, contact A.J. LeBlanc Heating. For 24/7 emergency service, call 603-623-0412. Serving New Hampshire families since 1928.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my AC running but not cooling?

The most common causes (in order): thermostat misconfigured, dirty filter, frozen evaporator coil, low refrigerant, blocked outdoor coil, tripped breaker on the outdoor unit, or failed compressor. Work through the checklist above.

Can I add refrigerant myself?

No. Federal EPA Section 608 regulations require refrigerant work be performed by a certified technician. More importantly, topping off without finding the leak means the refrigerant will escape again.

How do I know if my AC coil is frozen?

Visible ice on the indoor coil or on the refrigerant lines exiting the air handler. Often accompanied by water dripping or pooling when the ice melts.

How long should I let a frozen coil thaw before running the AC again?

At least several hours, ideally overnight. Setting the thermostat fan to On (no cooling) speeds the thaw by circulating warmer indoor air across the coil.

Should I be worried if my AC blows warm air briefly?

Brief warm air at startup is normal (the indoor coil takes a minute or two to get cold). Sustained warm air means one of the issues above.

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